Often, large household appliances, especially a washing machine, knock out an automatic machine, an RCD or cork. She does not have time to reach, the program stops, and at the same time the light disappears in the whole apartment. Sometimes it happens that the light is on, but the SMA still does not turn on.
We will deal with electrics further - we will tell you why the machine can knock out an automatic machine and what to do in such cases.
Why the washing machine knocks the machine
First of all, with such a failure, many immediately go to the flap or counter to switch the machine toggle switch to the on position and continue washing. If the failure is caused by system overload, such actions unacceptable - when you turn on the machine yourself during overloads, you run the risk of breaking expensive household appliances.
Important! Experts agree that in such a situation, you need to find the reasons for which the plugs or the machine were knocked out, or call an electrician to fix the problem.
If you first decided to find out on your own why the machine knocked out RCDs or plugs, check out the typical causes that cause such a failure:
- Installing an unsuitable safety device and a difavtomat.
- Worn or inappropriate wiring.
- Shorting the power cord of the washing machine.
- Damage to the outlet.
- Network filter malfunction.
- Shorting the buttons on the control panel (most often the start key).
- Damage to the CM control module.
- Burnout terminals and damage to the wiring of the machine.
- Damage to other components: electric motor or heater.
Important! If you have never previously repaired an electrician, then entrust the repairmen (an electrician, a washing machine repair technician) to find the cause of the breakdown.
Next, we consider each of the problems separately.
Communication problem
The washing machine has a significant load on the power grid, which is why manufacturers recommend using a network that is protected by an RCD.
Do not ignore the electrical wiring. To connect the SM to the network, you should choose a VVG cable with parameters of 3x2.5 mm - this applies to all machines, with or without drying.
In life, few people bother with the correct connection of the machine - it is also included in the general outlet with the rest of the household appliances, and with the help of an extension cord, and even with the use of an adapter. All this mercilessly affects the wiring and the power cord, can lead to the melting of the outlet. Protection immediately responds to such factors, so the machine knocks out the machine, the power supply is de-energized.
Diagnosing the problem is easy enough: pay attention to the wiring - it should darken, the socket may melt, and the smell of burning plastic will float in the air.
To prevent and prevent a problem, take the following actions:
- Take care of laying a separate network according to the connection diagrams of the washing machine.
- Pick up sockets with a waterproof housing.
- Be sure to install an RCD.
If there is a suspicion of a violation of the integrity of the SMA wire, use a tester to diagnose a breakdown. What should be done:
- Unscrew the base of the machine.
- Remove the fasteners holding the power cord.
- Ring the wires to diagnose a breakdown.
- If everything is normal with the wire, but there are blown terminals, they need to be replaced.
Network filter failure, problem with buttons
If the cord is completely in order, check the machine further. The next element that could cause it to knock out an automaton is a surge protector. Usually, a supply wire is also paired with this element. Manufacturers of household appliances produce a filter in conjunction with a cord - then you need to change the entire kit.
The part is not repaired, so after checking the filter with a tester and visually it is worth replacing the part if a breakage is detected.
Sometimes the machine may be knocked out due to a malfunction of the filter contacts with the power cord. This leads to burning of the contacts of both the filter and the cord. Do not bother with stripping the contacts - replace them and the filter so that there are no new failures in the power supply in the future.
Buttons are an equally rare reason why a machine can be knocked out when the machine is turned on. Time does not spare the buttons, so when you click on them, it can break through contacts, because of which the network is overloaded.
In this case, proceed as follows:
- Disassemble the washer (read about the analysis of individual models in the relevant articles: How to disassemble the LG washing machine; Bosch; How to replace the bearing in the Samsung washing machine).
- Take the tester to check the start button contacts.
- At the same time, ring the contacts of the other buttons and their wiring.
Controller, wire and terminal problems
If during the check it turned out that everything is in order with the cord, filter and buttons, then you have to carry out a painstaking check of all the electrics.
If you have already begun to disassemble the control unit, then start checking from it. First ring each posting, starting from places where there are gaps and irregularities.
Attention! The control panel is a complex and expensive part, so think carefully whether it is worth checking it manually or still it is better to entrust this task to specialists.
If the problem is not in the controller, then ring the wiring that goes to the electric motor, pump, heater, sensors, UBL and other elements. All burnt places need to be replaced, even if they are in working condition. When the wires fail (and they will do it), you will again have to disassemble the machine body.
Blame the heater or engine
If checking the previous parts did not work, then there is a chance that your water heater is disturbed in your washing machine. TEN - the reason for the failure of every third washing machine due to too hard water. The plaque remaining on the heater, over time, ceases to transmit heat, due to which the heater begins to burn out.
Often, the heater fails due to a pump breakdown. If the pump works all the time without shutting down, then cold water will constantly enter the system, which the heater will try to heat.
To check the heating element, perform the following manipulations:
- Arm yourself with a tester by setting the selector dial at 200.
- Open the front or back panel (depending on the make and model of the machine: in Bosch and Siemens - front, in other common brands - back). To remove the cover, just unscrew a few fasteners.
- Below under the drum you will find the shank of the heater and its 2 pins.
- Attach the tester probes to the contacts and look at the display.
- If the indicator is in the region of 30 Ohms (+/- 15 Ohms), then everything is in order with the heater.
- If the indicator is higher or lower, then the heater needs to be replaced.
- To get the heater, you need to unscrew the central nut, push the bolt inward and pull the part towards you.
Attention! For replacement, buy only original part analogs suitable for your make and model of CMA. If you buy a fake heater or an unsuitable power, then it will either not work, or it will quickly break.
The engine is another rarer, but possible reason for knocking out the machine. We do not recommend checking or repairing the motor yourself. But if you are confident in your abilities, then use the tips from the page "How to check the engine of the washing machine."
We advise you not to let the problem drift, but try to find out the cause of the failure yourself or contact the wizard. The instructions in our article will help you.